Project #1 Disaster to Awesome

This was my first Longer customer returned lk1 and I though It was gonna be ok, boy was I wrong.

The recieved condition
Hot-end had broken off tip and the insert was also damaged and broke off
No tools and unit looked like it had a few prints on it
The gantry was loose as well as the bottom plate rollers
Overall this unit looked like it was man handled or gruella hands

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Repair and test :
Replaced the hotend with an updated Titanium Heat Break Thermal Barrel
after trying a couple prints it became evedient the hot end couldn't get the temp above 190. Further inspection revealed the thermal and heater were new. I ended up running a new heater block and pushing the wires straight through to the main board in order to get the temps up to 220. It looked like I was there.

I figured this would be a good and cheap upgrade to the hot end. After assembly the test prints failed. I even went as far as replacing the complete hotend again only to realize the filament was not being delivered. Turns out the main board driver could not power the servo strong enough to push out the material. At this point I had to conclude the original owner was an idiot and did serous damage to the unit. (i use the term loosely because sometimes I qualify)

Decision Time: Well the time waisted on this makes it a bust out and the replacement mainboard is 70 bucks so Forgeta bout it.

Now to get something out of this unit and the decision is-----Replace the mainboard with a duet wifi control board. (60 smakers) This changes the dynamics of the game because of the capability and wireless connection. So here goes

First you have to mount the board , physical mount, I placed it where the old lk1 board was, then wire it up. At this point it's time to get a real lesson in Arduino programming because you have to update the code on the duet to current version and also set it up to run on the LK1.

Here are some files you will need and get ready to stress out because if your running a microcrap os it's a bitch. serial port configuration for one thing, if you get lucky and win finds the board look to heaven, if not consider a different computer

DUET WiFi instructions, BOSSA, YAT ,

Essentially what your doing is putting the duet into bootloader mode and connecting through the win comport and transmitting the .bin file to the board. This will give the duet a operating system to run

This is where we wind up, a beautiful interface that is connected to the host computer via ip & WiFi

intial setup using online config tool

first run was crazy, only had z movement

step one check heaters
ran M303 H0 S60 to heat and calibrate the bed Success!
ran M303 H1 S 200

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The duet has 3 wire endstops the 3v is not used on the board the outboard wires are used not the middle M119 in prontoface shows endstop status

The upgrade is moving along but the homing causes the unit to act like an core xy setup. when I home either of the axis's the machine lifts the z then repositions x then drops z

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This is a sidebar to explain the end stops for the Lk1 and duet

As mentioned above the wiring on the duet requires the use of the outboard pins of the 3pin connector, thus requiring changing out the connectors, it's just not possible to use the original 2 pin from the lk1.
Then the config file needs to reflect (active low) for the 3 axis's

Referance before you start your duet install

Location of plug-in files for Duet Web Control

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Convert stl to gcode

Step 1. Slicer Software

You need to install slicer software on your PC. While installing or after installing it ask for file types that are support on the slicer. Chose Arduino support, Stl, and gcode support but you are free to select as your need.

There are many different slicer software in the market. You can find many free slicer software with great features.

• Ultimaker Cura
• SuperSlicer
• PrusaSlicer
• PrusaSlicer
• Slic3r
• Eiger
• Simplify 3D
• FlashPrint

Step 2. Printer Profile

First, you need to create your printer profile in slicer software. Many different consumer’s printers companies already gave their printer profile in the slicer but if you use custom build so you need to do this.

1. Select the custom option from the printer.
2. Add Printer maximum travel distance for all axes.
3. Select Bed Type.
4. Chose G-code type.
5. Add Print-head dimensions.
6. Add height difference between nozzle and z-axis in gantry height.
7. Also, add extruder offset if needed.

Start g-code and End G-code

Start g-code run before every print while End g-code run after every print.

This will be added when I figure it out for the duet wifi

If you know the g-code language then you can add them as your need but if you don’t know about g-code then leave them as they or you internet for the best g-code commands to start or end the print.

Step 3. Import STL File

After configuring the printer profile, import your STL file from the import option in the slicer. you see your model in the slicer.

Before you click on the slice button you have to do some more configuration according to your print

• Select Material Type.
• Select print speed.
• Chose Gradient infill (It save your time and filament).
• Add Support.
• Select Adhesion type according to your filament type

Step 4. Slicing

After setting everything click on slice

• Put that file in your printer SD card.
• Insert the SD card in the printer (In Marlin Firmware).
• Power on the printer.
• In LCD navigate to SD card here you can see your files.

 

Note this:  the addition of the second z axis really wasn't worth the trouble. Yes it would help with the LK1 cause the x frame bar is long but the process to get the bed level has been a complete waist of time. Until I can get a sold instruction I would not recommend it

 

Final updates and settings

The final thing I wanted to try was adding the 2nd Z axis screw

This install has 2 methods of wiring. The kit comes with a splitter but the Duet2 has both a serial port and you can put the wiring to a separate driver (E1). The benefit of the latter option is the software can drive the 2 motors separate allowing for tilting the bet to get it level

What needs to be here is the code to input for the bedleveling. Working on it. The install uses the separate driver

add these lines to setup second z axis

File config.g:

...

M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3; two Z motors connected to driver outputs Z and E1

M671 X-20:220 Y0:0 S0.5 ; leadscrews at left (connected to Z) and right (connected to E1) of X axis

M208 X-5:205 Y0:300 ; X carriage moves from -5 to 305, Y bed goes from 0 to 300

...

File bed.g:

G28 ; home

M401 ; deploy Z probe (omit if using bltouch)

G30 P0 X20 Y100 Z-99999 ; probe near a leadscrew, half way along Y axis

G30 P1 X180 Y100 Z-99999 S2 ; probe near a leadscrew and calibrate 2 motors

M402 ; retract probe (omit if using bltouch)

MY config

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S0 ; physical drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S1 ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; physical drive 3 goes backwards
M569 P4 S1 ; physical drive 4 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 ; two Z motors connected to driver outputs Z and E1
M671 X-20:220 Y0:0 S0.5 ; leadscrews at left (connected to Z) and right (connected to E1) of X axis
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16:16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400.00 E93.00:400.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X1200.00 Y1200.00 Z24.00 E300.00:24.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X24000.00 Y24000.00 Z300.00 E6000.00:300.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X700.00 Y700.00 Z100.00 E5000.00:100.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X800 Y800 Z800 E1000:800 I50 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout